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Friday, April 3, 2015

Iraq'on There Are No More Good Puns For This Place

My Friends, My Family, and Peripherally Interested Strangers

Just when I was free to pursue real friendships, play lawn darts, live life and date cute women, Kurdistan jumped back on the radar like a recurrent cold sore.   The entire purpose of my last mission here, namely to train a replacement, was for naught when the unfortunate individual was given his marching orders recently.  Oil being cheaper than Croatian hookers isn’t good for business, it seems.   I had less than a week’s notice to get packed and get dirty for a month. But this is oil, and I am the game, I’m not “in it,” so away we go.

This morning the opposite of writer’s block hit me square in the face, as so many folks reading this surely would like to.  Unfortunately, There’s no action at the moment;  The rig is at a stand-still. My luggage hasn’t arrived so I can’t work.  I’m rocking about town with the same beloved salty oil trash I had the pleasure of meeting last trip.  But a recent Vegas excursion made me realize that pontificating with a 60% bullshit cut is a necessary life skill at times.   Accordingly, I’d like to take this opportunity to introduce my cast of characters for this adventure.  I’m also planning another post about Kurdish patriotism, day-partying, underwear preferences, and probably some other mundane detail of being here that’s funny when you think about it.  So without further ado, welcome to my life.

The Cast
I.                 Introduction
To protect the guilty, and potentially keep me from being fired, the names of characters who earned descriptions have been changed.  This place is unreasonably global.  Going around the table in our morning meeting were (Not changed) Virgil, Augusto, Abderraheim, Neil Young (not kidding), Mohammad, Alejandro, and Matt.  This is just a small sampling.  At the table across from me at this writing are two Australians, a Moroccan, a Libyan and a miscellaneous gringo (likely Canadian).  They are bitterly lamenting the price of drugs and women in Thailand.  They harken back to “when times were better” with the same nostalgia I use for the original Star Wars trilogy.  This is a fully normal conversation.  HR here put its head in the oven years ago.  Things are better this way.

II.               The Whiteneck
Redneck is a common concept in the American South.  But when one hails from the Great White North a new term is compulsory.  We’ll call him Ben for now.  Ben, at 39, is the youngest grandfather I know.  His lovely Thai girlfriend is 20, his lovely daughter 19.  He refuses to provide an honest assessment of which is hotter, but I posit that it is his girlfriend.  Kudos, brother, if you’re reading this. 

The Whiteneck owns a healthy assortment of weaponry which he frequently references fondly, cementing his nickname’s veracity.  He also proudly rocks dual tat sleeves depicting his love of, and faith to, Jesus etc.  Ben possesses an uncanny ability to juxtapose his religious background and beliefs with details of his Thailand-centered party lifestyle and downright excessive use of the F-word.  This creates a consistently humorous environment, and his refusal to acknowledge the comical nature of the situation contributes to it still more.  He just doesn’t get why that’s funny.
Ben is a top-notch drinking partner who is as giving as he is absurdly fit.  He’s quick to educate, to admit when he’s wrong, and has been nothing but generous.  Thanks, Ben, for working with me. When you read this, please don’t hurt me.

III.              Neil F*cking Young
Kindly disregard my earlier efforts to change names.  This one couldn’t be done.  NFY’s actual name is Neil Young.  I first met this gentleman via email, and immediately wondered if a pun or an oblique “Old Man” reference were appropriate.  I was then frozen with fear that he’d be musically inept, or a ripped black guy, or a Swedish woman, or any other demographically awkward situation that’d make him similar to Michael Bolton in Office Space.

Upon meeting the man, I’m thrilled to confirm my initial suspicions of “totally embracing it” are spot-on.  He’s a 50-odd year old Aussie who married a hot Russian woman and now resides in Moscow.  He’s lived all over the world, is paid roughly $1500 per day to be here, and hasn’t worn a shirt to work yet that didn’t feature the New Orleans Jazz Festival in some way.  His casual shoes are Chucks.  His ponytail is Sampson-esque and his teeth appear to have been recycled from the “before” pictures in Crest commercials.  This man is, in short, a total gem.  We will party.  It will be good.

IV.              The Consultant
The Consultant, being a crazy dutch bastard, goes by the moniker Von Hoodwink.  Rarely have I met a man so intent on talking me into his line of work, and rarely have I met a man with more convincing arguments.

“I travel constantly.  I work when I want to.  This year, I have made a shitload of money.  I’m not married but I have a partner.  I only leave work when she insists on screwing me, or when my friends want to ride motorcycles in Spain.”

Touche, Von Hoodwink.  He snores like an atomic chainsaw and laughs like he’s choking, which is possible.  He also helped me carry in groceries and I have yet to produce a foul one-liner, chauvinistic comment or clever derogatory pun which he hasn’t said himself before.  He is, in a word, my hero.  We talk.


V.               The King
We’ll call The King Sinbad.  He’s from the North African former pirate-haven of Tripoli and, like the rest of these clowns, has worked all over the world.  

Sinbad effortlessly maneuvers conversations between socio-political analysis of the Middle East to our corporate limitations to the price and quality of Hashish in various Spanish cities.  Barcelona, I’m told, is where it’s at.  His oilfield knowledge is rivalled only by his capacity to drink like a fish with a drinking problem and still perform the next day.  All waitstaff and bartenders at the local watering hole know his name, rank and homeroom number.  Sinbad’s first three drinks are always free because his last ten always aren’t.  Sinbad is my friend here, has taught me more about well testing and life in general than most anyone else, and has made the cut of “people I work with who I email funny shit to that isn’t work related.”  A trip to North Africa under his supervision would come close to killing me, but in a productive manner.    Sinbad is the man.


VI.              The cute, intelligent, technically savvy, artistically inclined, somehow unmarried female who is also nice to animals
She works on the same shift as the Tooth Fairy, Santa Clause, and the central spiritual figure of one of the religions you, the reader, do not subscribe to.  Back to reality.

VII.            Outroduction
These are obviously only a few of the gems I get to associate with on this trip. While it’s impossible to select just a few people here as a truly representative cross section, the effort to do so produces an interesting common vein.  That common vein is this: stop being so damn linear.


Living in a big city chocked full of college grads with degrees and dreams makes you forget stuff.  Namely, it makes you forget there are other ways to make a living than the 8-5 MF grind that gives you two weeks off and a lame Christmas party every year.  There’s more to life.  Adventurous careers and entrepreneurial actions are the lifeblood out here, and I drank deeply of the nectar.  These folks love problem-solving, are team-oriented to the end, and between them have more passport stamps than Madonna’s naughty bits.  Many of them were dirt poor before they figured it out, and that desperation forged what we see today. Most importantly, the expats and consultants here in Kurdistan are, by and large, really, really, sincerely happy with their lives.  And that’s worth more than a couple Croatian hookers.   

Till next time,

Kurdy