“So
guys, a question.” I posed, trying to reverse the negative vibes ,“Remember
when we had the opposite problem, and thought we’d never drink water again, and
Spa mentioned we still had whiskey in the bag?”
“Yes. Awful.” Schill unsurprisingly recalled.
“And
I told him ‘I’d sooner fellate a terrorist?’
What’d you guys think of that?”
“Loved
it. Thought I might die smiling,” Schil replied.
Spa
confirmed “Yep. Anything with terrorists
is funny.”
We
laughed through thunder and lightning surrounding us. It almost buried our
uncomfortably unavoidable thoughts about the temporary nature of life. Almost.
We were sharing Spa’s
map, while he broke a mental sweat with a compass and GPS.
“I’m not too bummed. We lost time but got that extra water
earlier. Shouldn’t be a problem.” I
answered, oblivious to the fact that no one had asked me. “This view’s pretty
spectacular.”
Aside from the lack of a visible
path or trail, the view rivalled any form of substance abuse to make the mind
go blank. After reaching an impasse in
the drainage ditch we assumed was the trail, we took the path of least
resistance out of the ditch. “Least
Resistance” soon became a relative term.
The path we optimistically imagined we were on deteriorated to
waist-high scrubs and cacti of equal proportions in all directions, leaving us
with only one option: climb. Roughly
1,500 vertical feet and an hour later, we stood atop a real life Pride Rock
crowning a huge thorny hill or a tiny
thorny mountain. And the view knocked
our $19 wool hiking socks off.
“How’s my bandana flow?” I asked,
offering Schil my camera. Despite the
impossibilities of sharing the Big Bend scenery with the world, I was
determined to proselytize via facebook photos at least enough to make men
jealous and make women wonder how I’m still single.
“Adequate.” Schil responded. My red bandana and blue fishing shirt flapped
freely in the wind. I heard the shutter
snap and looked into the wilderness, feigning pensive.
“So how boned are we, Spa?” I inquired.
“Minimally,” he responded, “We need
to head about 400 meters that way,” he gesticulated accordingly, “and we should
hit the trail again.”
Schill and I’s telepathically
agreed not to argue. Onward we trudged
through the bramble, both wondering who the hell uses meters.
“Seriously though, you’ll need a
callsign upgrade,” I informed Spa, “Schil is a decently tough name for a
mountain man. And look at the
beard. He’s like a homeless Chuck
Norris.”
“Yeah, I could use some rugged-ing
up.” Spa replied, “but you already called me Spa in the Costa Rica chronicles.
Consistency is crucial to my character development.”
“True. But your name makes me think
of a middle aged woman with cucumbers on her eyes and a golf pro in her mouth.”
“Dude, there was a golf pro at the
country club I grew up at, and if one tenth of the stories I heard about that
guy were true, you’re gonna see a lot of pro golfers who all look alike coming
out of Denver in the next few years.” Schil
contributed.
“I chose my career poorly. How about WipesWithRocks? I still think that’s crazy.” I responded.
Schil and I laughed. Spa had earned a legitimate bachelors of
science in alpine survival on his Alaskan adventure. This expedition taught him some of the
less-than-fine arts of wilderness life. I was more eager to adopt some kernels
of wisdom than others. To keep my mind
on more savory subjects, I wondered aloud about the appropriateness of using my
borrowed military-issued Ka-bar knife to cut cheese and salami. We agreed that
since the cheese was not French, but “Murrican,” I could go without
penalty. Huge relief.
“How are we on water?” I probed. My gallon jug was considerably lighter than
when we left the unexpected cache. I
doubted any strength gains were responsible for this weight difference.
“Not good,” Schil and Spa echoed in
unison. Schil tried to take a pull from
his camelback. The hiss of air through
the nozzle added audible emphasis to the statement immediately prior.
“This four quarts a day thing…is
that for people? Or for small
lizards?” We shared an uneasy laugh at
my comment. This laughter stemmed far
more from not wanting to acknowledge the gravity of the situation than actual
humor content. Remoteness and dry water
bottles could make Newt Gingrich think he’s Jerry Seinfeld.
Onward we marched. Some hours later, we settled for a
break.
“You’re dry too?” I asked Spa,
already knowing the answer. He merely
nodded, his makeshift turban adding a Darth Vader-esque gravity to the
confirmation. Realizing the
pointlessness of this water break with no water, we took a moment to survey
what lay in front of us. The beauty of
the landscape decried its obvious danger.
Generously distributed iron gave the local stratigraphy the illusion of
being life-bearing, or at minimum friendly.
Canyons seemingly hand-shoveled out of the Earth danced in unpredictable
patterns for miles in every direction.
The path ahead sloped gently downward until disappearing out of sight
around the mountain we would next descend.
Dehydration has curious effects on
a body. It saps the muscles of their
strength and handicaps coordination and balance. But moreover it cripples the mind. Focus is impossible, and in narrow
mountainous paths this is particularly dangerous. I thought back to the Hampton Inn at Fort
Stockton. Arriving after 1am and leaving
after only a few short hours, we had been surrounded by more food and water in that
time than in the 48 since. The powdered
fake eggs at the breakfast buffet weren’t so bad, in retrospect. Even the 4 hours of sleep, paltry by modern
yuppy standards, reigned supreme over tossing and turning in a tiny tent on top
of rocks and unforgiving caliche. The
towel service woul-
“SHIT!”
Pain. Much pain.
Lack of focus led me to step on unworthy terrain, and rewarded me with road
rash which felt like a napalm splash on my right thigh. I searched for the camouflaged Taliban sniper
who had just shot my knee, which was now 9 months pregnant with a pain
baby. Not my finest hour.
“Ugh…how far are we from the
cache?” I inquired, righting myself wholly without dignity or grace. We had previously stashed water near the
phony touristy ranchhouse we had been approaching for the last two days.
“Does it matter?” Spa contritely
replied. This was less of a smart-ass
quip than a simple rhetorical statement of logistics. We had passed the point of no return. If we wanted water, we had to walk to the
water. It was closer to go forward than
back.
“Shit…” I reiterated, illustrating
the diversity of the word. Glancing from Spa to Schill, I noticed the dazed
look of a Loony Toon freshly struck by a frying pan. I then realized that while my water supply
had been on empty for an hour or two, he had been out since lunch. The heat was palpable, and he was wilting.
“I don’t feel so good. How do I
look?” Schil’s highly technical medical complaint was as slurred and dry, like
a drunk high-schooler who just rinsed his mouth out with sand.
Eloquence begets eloquence, and Spa
calmly replied, “Like shit.”